Full LED Tail-Light Specification

It's strong of the impact that can be recognized from the outside at one-shot view ,
and I made it from probably Electric vehicle FIT/JAZZ in the future having equipped with such a tail-light .

When making the Front-Winkers LED were ended, I vaguely thought it to be might rear next .
but, I never thought that take a cost very much ...
Many a little makes a mickle .
It's DIY that can be actually felt that the price of LED is still high . (^-^)

<Attention>
This DIY adds the hand to an important indication light .
Therefore, Not only oneself but also the third person might be involved in the accident .
The validation of an expert is also necessary whether it's at least in the state that can be confirmed enough from the range where there is a description in the car inspection when this DIY is done .

Materials

Ø5 Yellow LED : 13000mcd Ø10 White LED : 7000mcd Ø10 Red LED : 15000mcd 10mA CRD ( Current Regulative Diode ) . (To throw 20mA of the rated current into LED.) A lot of each parts are necessary . Additionally, Universal Electric Board / 8 pieces Rectification Diodes / Resistors, etc . I use Yellow color LED this time because it was Orange near Red though I made the Front Winkers with Orange color LED before . Not Pure Yellow, but Yellow near Orange color . It was a color more near the winker electric-bulb color .

There are 3 kinds of main methods of lighting two or more LED with the car .

1: Resistors
2: Current Regulative Diode (CRD)
3: 3 Terminal Regulator

Resistor is used to lower up to the rated voltage of LED .
CRD is used to throw the current only by the rated current of LED .
3 Terminal Regulator is used to secure a steady voltage.

There is a method of individually using of each, and is a method of the combination using of each too .

In an individual usage,
It's " Resistor specification" that the cost is the cheapest .
It's " Current Regulative Diode (CRD) specification" that the cost is the highest .
It's " Current Regulative Diode (CRD) specification" and " 3 Terminal Regulator specification" to be able to secure the steadiest light .
It's " Resistor specification" and " Current Regulative Diode (CRD) specification" that use is the easiest .
It's " 3 Terminal Regulator specification" not to use easily most .

The battery voltage is higher than that of 12V because it is charged (Fit is about 14.4V) when the alternator operates .
but, The battery voltage is considerably unstable when the electrical equipments such as air conditioners and the Headlight and wipers etc are movable .
It's not a steady voltage at all .
When use LED is 1 or 2 pieces and is little, light seems to be steady .
but, When LED is arranged in large quantities and used, the flicker is understood further more by the voltage change of the battery .

" Resistor specification" is influenced directly by the change of the voltage .
This is because the number of LED used from the maximum value of the battery voltage is calculated and it calculated the Resistor .
And, In addition, It's because of use without stabilizing an unstable power supply .
Resistors changes fundamentally by the change of the voltage in this method, too .
When a voltage any more has been generated in 12V calculation, LED will be driven more than the rated voltage of the LED .
Moreover, if it's the case when do not Over-Drive, because the Resistor with large of Resistor value will be used from the reserve strength of the voltage, brightness (OOOO mcd) when the rated voltage of LED is driven cannot be obtained .
40mA of twice as many abbreviation as 20mA of rated current will flow only by voltage rising by 0.2V from rated voltage . (General Red color family LED is 50mA in the maximum current)
The Red color LED family has the character to be easy to pass current from Blue, White, etc .
It's not good to exceed the rated voltage and the rated current if it thinks about the longevity of LED .
but, if you use it for the place (Interior etc.) without the necessity of brightness severely, the Resistors are advantageous in the cost and easiness to use overwhelmingly .

Rated current value of use LED in case of " Current Regulative Diode (CRD) specification",
For example, if it is 20mA, the current of 20mA or more doesn't flow because it's 20mA in the connected in parallel with 10mACRD . (There is an error margin.)
Therefore, because the current flows only by 20mA even when two or more LED is used by the series, or even when you use one LED, you may not calculate about voltage or current .
When Resistor is used, the Resistor value calculation is necessary in Ohm's law .
but it might be easy to use CRD further because the calculation is unnecessary .
Moreover, when the voltage of 3.5V(For 10mACRD) or more(Until 50V) hangs to CRD, the output current is constant .
But, it influences the voltage change for 3.5V or less .
(About CRD details on SEMITEC website )
So, calculating the voltage value of LED and CRD so that the battery voltage may become 12V or less from MAX(About 14.4V) and using it are steady the current .

For " 3 Terminal Regulator specification", In the car usually with a regulator of 12V output . (There is an exception)
In that case, even if the input voltage is the lowest, 14V or more is necessary .
A steady 12V is output even if there is considerable voltage change (11V-35V) .
butr, when the input voltage drops below 12V, it's cannot also output 12V .
So, the voltage is unstable at 12V or less .
and the regulator generates heat, so it's necessary to install the heat sink to radiate heat .
When parts are put in the limited space, the taking turning might be serious .
Electric knowledge is also necessary because it doesn't use it with Reguretar alone though the cost is cheap next the Resistor .
( It's composed of several parts. like a Stabilizing Supply)

< Various and reference prices at DenDenTown in JPN >

Resistor : 5.00 Yen/piece (Necessary in each systems or root)
CRD : 120.00 Yen/piece (Necessary in each systems)
3 Terminal Regulator : 300.00 Yen/piece + ƒ¿ (Necessary only for root)

Though I wrote some difficult things,
A difficult connection method and electric knowledge also almost unnecessary,
In the method of obtaining a stable light,
Although cost increases, " Current Regulative Diode (CRD)" of a standard method is used .

CRD is OK even if it connects it with either Plus(+) side or Minus(-) side of LED .

Circuit of the Brake-light and Small-light

Brightness is changed for Brake-light and Small-light at night by the same LED . The voltage of LED is stopped by the "Resistor" put in between the line of Small-light and a Diode, and the dark light of Small-light is made to express by the same LED . I made it Variable Resistor specification . Because the brightness at the Small-light can be adjusted by the volume . (It's never for the specification which can also perform Back-Fog-ization.) (^o^)

Manufacture
	Disassemble a Tail-light . Prices of new parts are the one side 8,500.00 Yen . There is Tapping-Screw to have special shape in two places of the arrow . and There are several-place nails . The adhesive-seal might be difficult, because it's firm at the normal temperature if it doesn't warm it . so, it's greatly difficult compared with taking Headlight ASSY apart .
	The hot water is put in Taillight ASSY in the bathroom, wrenched it open in the Minus-Driver after it leaves it for several minutes . Once, I have cracked the Taillight of just purchase as for least . The second safely proceeded work little by little because I had indeed understood the knack . Still, it took one side about 15 minutes . It was difficult work strained most .
	The paper pattern is made for cutting out the Universal Electric Board . It's necessary to adjust the installation angle especially the Brake-Light . Light is distributed to the Lens-cut on the lens side up and down, but It doesn't distribute light so much right and left . Light is distributed to the Lens-cut of the Front Winker right and left . Lower-part lighting was also made perfectly . (^-^)
Note) Silver paint of the base tends to get very damaged . Andr, when oil from the hand adheres, it's very troublesome . It will become cloudy immediately . Correction will be impossible . Because I had one failing Taillight ASSY, I cut out the Universal Electric Board and paper pattern manufacture by using it . If there is no spare Taillight, it slight adjustment might be difficult . Well, it's unquestionable if it all paints on the plating specification etc. even if damage adheres .
	This is an Upper Brake-light . The specular cutting sticker is pasted to the Universal Electric Board . Buys it at Tokyu-Hands . No electroconductive . Ratings 1.9V 20mA Red Ø10 LED : 36 pieces 10mA CRD : 18 pieces
	Series connection of parallel 10mA CRD to 4 pieces LED . and They are 9 systems as for this . Putting within 12V is steady light because there are 0.6-0.7V voltage drop of the Rectification Diode . <One system> 1.9v(LED)+1.9v+1.9v+1.9v+3.5v(CRD)+0.7v(D)=11.8v TOTAL : 9 system specification . The Brake-light limit the current by Resistor at the time of Small-light . Therefore, all systems should unite the voltages with LED of the same number . Otherwise, only one system will become brighter than other systems .
	This is a lower side Brake-light . Ratings 1.9V 20mA Red Ø10 LED : 40 pieces 10mA CRD : 20 pieces This Full LED specification does "The Lower side lighting" of standard fit DIY of the Mr. Spoon design though this lower side is not used in the normal Fit (Before 04 JDM Models).
	Same as the upper Brake-light . <One system> 1.9v(LED)+1.9v+1.9v+1.9v+3.5v(CRD)+0.7v(D)=11.8v TOTAL : 10 system specification .
	This is a Back Light . Ratings 3.5V 20mA White Ø10 LED : 20 pieces 10mA CRD : 20 pieces
	Series connection of parallel 10mA CRD to 2 pieces LED . and They are 10 systems as for this . <One system> 3.5v(LED)+3.5v(LED)+3.5v(CRD)=10.5v TOTAL : 10 system specification .
	This is a Winker ( Blinker/Turn signal ) . The Winker part should not be a specular cutting sticker . Matt black was excellent in the visibility of LED light . If it is specular cutting sticker, It was not easy to have recognized it by the light of LED mixing with sunlight when direct sunshine struck . (From the outside when LED is a fully exposed Fit/JAZZ . ) Ratings 1.9V 20mA Yellow Ø5 LED : 51 pieces 10mA CRD : 26 pieces
	Series connection of parallel 10mA CRD to 4 pieces LED . and They are 13 systems as for this . <System> 1.9v(LED)+1.9v+1.9v+1.9v+3.5v(CRD)=11.1v (12 systems) 1.9v(LED)+1.9v+1.9v+3.5v(CRD)=9.2v (1 system) TOTAL : 13 system specification . Though I want to have done to 52 pieces by equalizing the voltage, The beauty of arrangement is also necessary because LED of Winker part is fully exposed from the outside . (^o^) If you wants to equalize LED by obstinacy, Hidden-LED will only have to be connected with the back of the Universal Electric Board .
The Winker part chose Ø5 LED from a viewpoint of the LED definition of "sparkle in surface" rather than Ø10 LED . And, light cannot diffuse because the Taillight of the Fit it is a lamp bare specification that there is no lens cut in the Winker part . Although the Ø10 LED is brighter for a use like the Spotlight, the direction characteristic is very narrow . Although the use Ø5 LED has narrow direction characteristic at 7 degrees (14 degrees), it's made to do the overcrowdedness layout and to shine by "Surface" . Ø5 is 13000mcd . Ø10 of same manufacturer is 23000mcd . Feel Yellow brighter than Red or the Orange color . Is it because the color which is easy to recognize by man's eyes ? Although feels not to be so bright when White(7000mcd) is judged only from the numerical value, it actually looks and it's very bright . As for Ø5 LED specifications, the pattern design becomes very difficult from Ø10 LED specification by doing the overcrowdedness layout . I have designed after a long time in a serious mode . ( One side, Between pins Zero, Drawn without lifting the brush from the paper is difficult.) And, The Power Consumption and the cost are higher Ø5 LED specifications . The externals from outside is Ø10 LED more powerful than Ø5 LED . ( I was hesitant which to be chosen until the last minute.) Flux for circuit board splayed on each Universal Electric Board bottom, and the anticorrosive was given . Because there is considerably moist in Taillight ASSY .
	A plug is created by the Universal Electric Board so that it can insert in the socket of a normal electric bulb. You may remodel a normal electric bulb and make it . If each taillight ASSY exchanges by opening pulling out about the plug, it is possible to return it at once normally .
	A strong Elasticity adhesive for shock was used to install in the LED board into Taillight ASSY . (400.00 Yen) It's heatproof, water-proof, and shockproof . Super-X when being troubled .
	The cutting sticker of the carbon design pasted to the side of the Taillight . As for an Electric vehicle Fit/Jazz, it's likely to be equipped with such a Taillight .
	The final lighting check is done, clean the inside dust, and installed the lens . Alhough the adhesive-seal on the market was prepared by way of precaution, the adhesive-seal that adhered to Taillight ASSY was able to be recycled as it was . It warms with the Hair-drier and it sticks . I did by tenacity . It's safe though I thought that water might invade the inside . There is no tarnish now . ( Passage of three half years already. ) It's satisfactory at all . By any chance, because it's resoluble in the above-mentioned method when the disassemble is again necessary . ( I do not want to do again ... )
	Here is bottom view of Taillight ASSY . It's adjustable the brightness at the time of an up-and-down Small-light by two volumes at the center . Variable resistor of 10K-ohm B-line type . It's a moist place, so measure is taken firmly . If it did not actually confirm how much brightness was good by eyes in outdoor, resistor value was not decided to me . If resistor value has been fixed, it only has to layout a usual resistor on the Universal Electric Board .
	Completion finally . There is considerably an impact . It's effective oppositely that there is not a lens cut . It's goood Fit . It doesn't understand from the outside in other cars models . Though the black of the base of the winker part is unbalanced in good-looking as the one-point of the Eye-catch tech for Dress-up scene . It's super-love for me . (^o^)

Small Light Brightness adjusted by the volume .	Brake Light It's Red(Crimson) when actually seeing .
Winker (Blinker/Turn signal) It's orange yellow . The winker electric bulb is further yellow .	Back Light It's pure white . .
	Grain of LED is seen when approaching . But, 3 pieces are turned off at the same time as breaking by even 1 piece among these . Is it safe till when ? A true endurance test starts now . ( 3 half years have already been passing.) (The construction of this DIY is April, 2002.) (Completely with no problem.)

The manufacturer seems to be making only 1000 LED a month used for winker part LED used this time . (At present 25 May 2002, New item TLYH20TP)

The making period is about 1 month .
I spent considerable money due to making for trial purposes, the failure, making for trial purposes, and the failure .
But, because it was a compilation of DIY for me, this completion is big satisfactory .

By the way,
Power consumption sum total 188W (Include the lower side lighting) of the normal electric bulb of a Taillight part turned into 20.16W by Full LED-ization .
(It's LED ratings of right and left Taillight total to simplicity. )

* The measure DIY against a high-flasher of the Winker(Blinker) accompanying LED-izing is to [ "Blink Interval Adjustable Flasher Relay" ] .
(It has not translated into English yet.)

Extra.
From 05 MODEL HONDA Fit LED Taillight . .	Aftermarket parts . First model design type LED Taillight .
	Full LED Taillight Ver 2. Full Luxeon LED Taillight Specifications. but,,, This DIY has been left 2003 since then... Lumileds : http://www.luxeon.com/       Upper Brake Lights . : . . 1W Emitter Lambertian Red 40 pieces (44 lumens/piece) Lower Brake Lights . : . . 1W Star/O Batwing Red 16 pices (27 lumens/piecs) Winkers (Blinkers) . : . . 1W Emitter Lambertian Amber 32 pieces (42 lumens/piecs) Back Lights . . . : . . . 5W Star V Lambertian + 30mm Collimator White 6 pieces (120 lumens/piece)